Saturday 23 June 2012

Miss Swan Goes to Russia:Part V

5 Things You Can't Miss in Moscow...
and 5 Things You Should Definitely Skip

1. Bathe Like a Russian

Can't Miss
Go check out the public bath houses (called banyas). But if you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen banya, because you'll probably pass out.

In a multi-leveled steam room, a large Russian lady comes in, throws cups of water on the coals until your nostrils start to burn, then throws essential oils all over the walls and you (apparently they warn you to shut your eyes). She takes a towel and helicopters it around so you feel gusts of even hotter air. You start to wonder if your breaths are actually doing anything, because your lungs sure aren't inflating. Eventually the sadistic woman leaves, and everyone plays a game of chicken of who will give up first and go outside. When you FINALLY emerge from the lake of fire and brimstone, you jump into an ice bath, take a dip in a luke-warm pool, drench yourself in honey, and do it all again.

Skip It
Before leaving the steam room, you can get a "massage" from a lady who will beat your poor naked body with tree branches. You lay out on a table on the highest, hottest level of the sauna, and she starts whacking you over and over. Remember how you can barely breathe as it is in that extreme heat/humidity? I imagine it'd be like being smothered with a pillow while being attacked by the Whomping Willow. Um, yeah, no. Maybe next time.


2. Take a Trip to the Ballet

Can't Miss
Go see a ballet at the NEW Bolshoi Theatre. It's not as ornate as the original, but at least most seats have a good view of the stage.

Carmen Suite at the new Bolshoi



Skip It
Don't see a ballet at the original Bolshoi Theatre unless you are willing to dish out a chunk of change on good seats - you might end up with a view of a pillar. Instead, you can tour the Bolshoi if you are willing to wait in line for a couple hours (they only let 15 people in a day, and the tour is in Russian).

Bolshoi Theatre before our tour




3. Buy Tacky Souvenirs

Can't Miss
Izmaylovo Market is a bit off the beaten path, but if you have the means, go! You can get pirated DVDs if your conscience lets you (mine did), matryoshka dolls of anything from Dora the Explorer to the Pittsburg Penguins, hats and muffs, and your fair share of Soviet propaganda posters, pins, gas masks, and uniforms. 




I looked EVERYWHERE for NHL matryoshka dolls for my family - success!


Skip It
Avoid the souvenir shops around any of the big tourist areas because you'll pay a fraction of the price at Izmaylovo. Especially if you are looking for hockey player matryoshka dolls.

4. Learn about the USSR
(you don't know how lucky you are, boy)

Can't Miss
The Gulag Museum was one of my favorite parts of the trip. They do a great job of showing the birth of the USSR, Lenin and Stalin's regimes, and a sobering display on the lives of 10 million people who perished in the gulags (the USSR's correctional work camps).



Shoes of a girl killed in a gulag

Stalin propaganda literature

Soviet photo manipulation: count the number of people in the original (top) picture, then see how many are missing in the fabricated copy. If you ever crossed Stalin, he essentially erased you from history.

Skip It
I don't really have a 'definitely skip' on this section. The USSR fell in 1991 - that is not that long ago. To most people in Russia and the former states, communism is still more familiar to them than the presidential system they have today. Learning about the turbulent, manipulated Soviet history was uncomfortably fascinating, especially as someone coming from such a young western country.   

5. Drink Like a Russian

Can't Miss
Be sure to have some thyme tea at the cafe directly beside the Christ the Savior Cathedral. And don't leave Moscow without sipping some peppermint tea at Master & Margarita! It's crowded and pricey, but so worth it to hear a violin, a viola, and a piano jazzing up anything from Vivaldi to Queen. Lastly, I'm in love with Morse (sp?), a cranberry-based juice with any and all other berries thrown in. Mm mm.


Skip It

Adults love Kvass. Kids love Kvass. But if fermented bread yeast is not your thing, you probably won't be a fan of this favorite Russian drink. I'd also steer clear of Tarkhun - a tarragon-flavored pop that was all the rage during the Soviet Era. It looks just like scope, and it tastes just like scope. I will pass.


Miss Swan Goes to Russia: Part IV

Saint Petersburg - Where the Sun Don't Set

If Venice and Prague ever had a love affair in Moscow, the illegitimate child would be St. Petersburg. It's got the fairy-tale architecture of Prague, the canals and blatant tourist traps of Venice, and a touch of Moscow's edge. The best part? We were there during the White Nights Festival, the few weeks a year when the sun never really goes down.
 

The sun "sets" around 12:30 AM and the sky turns to dusk for a couple hours before it begins to rise again at 2:30 AM
 Top 10 "Plays" of St. Petersburg (apologies to ESPN)

10. Got upgraded to a sweet suite with balcony overlooking St. Isaac's cathedral.


DJ at the rooftop club, where they gave blankets to everyone because it was stinkin cold

    2 girls packing for 3 days in 1 backpack...in a nice hotel. #outofplace
9. Scaled the hotel roof when my plane ticket flew off the aforementioned balcony.

Good idea: taking a birthday picture message for your friend.
Bad idea: using your plane ticket to write said message on a windy day.
8. Met Peter the Great himself, whose price for a picture with him was 300 rubles ($10)  or a "keeeeiss". Unfortunately, I didn't have the money and was fresh out of chapstick. 


Wait, another Peter?
Peters come in every color of the rainbow
7. Ran into one of my college friends who is serving a mission in St. Petersburg! The missionaries volunteer at the Hermitage for community service. Did you get that? The Hermitage. I picked beans for community service on my mission.





6. Took a hydrofoil boat ride out to Peterhof. The last time I was on a hydrofoil was a  grueling 3-hour ride from Japan to Korea. Everyone was throwing up while the Tortoro movie played on repeat. This trip was WAY better...no vomitting and no anime!





The statues all looked so naked and so helpless....

So we gave them a hand. And a leaf.

Much better.
Modest is the hottest

5. Tried delicious Georgian food. Wiki tells me that Georgian cuisine has influences from the Middle East and Europe, and I tell you, that makes for yummy food.


4. Visited the palace where Rasputin was killed. They poisoned him, and he lived. They shot him 4 times, and he lived. They tied him up and threw him in the river, and he died. After years of taking the animated film Anstasia as fact, I learned that Rasputin wasn't an enemy to the Romanovs, didn't have a sidekick white bat, and wasn't voiced over by Doc Brown. If you want a credible source on Rasputin's life, just listen to the Boney M song.


We didn't have time to go into the palace

Is that an entire Mondrian building I see? Heaven!
3. Saint Isaac's Cathedral - one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen.

I laid on the ground to snap this, and kids started taking pictures of me. Maybe I'll get on Flickr?


Views of St. Petes from the dome


2. Walking around the Church of the Spilt Blood, we stumbled upon a movie set. And oh, it gets better: they were filming. A kissing scene. On a bridge. In front of that gorgeous church.



Russian Jim Carrey, anyone?


You are singing the Tetris theme song in your head, aren't you?



1. On the way to Catherine's Summer Palace we had some quirky adventures. First, I tried to buy some cookies at a grocery store with no price tag. So obviously, NONE of the cookies were on sale, and the cashier had me put them back on the shelf. Really? Then, we then met a guy on the bus who was all like "I just met you, and this is crazy...but here's my SIM card. So call me, maybe". I guess that's how they do it here? #welcometorussia

No driving, biking, snow-mobiling, downhill skiing, sledding, snowboarding, skateboarding, rollerblading, dogs, swimming, fishing, drinking, camping, fire, littering, or 80's style boomboxes. 


The Amber Room - that looks like wood paneling on the walls but it's AMBER.
Golden oldies at the palace